The LS is equipped with a dual electronic automatic temperature control system, referred to as a DEATC or DATC or even EATC. The cabin temperature is controlled by the flow of coolant through the driver and passenger heater cores. So the operation of this coolant flow valve is critical. A description of the system is attached. If the temperature of the air from the vents is always hot, regardless of the temperature setting on the DEATC then the problem is likely to be the Coolant Control Valve, or the DEATC or the wiring/connections. The most likely culprit is the Coolant Control Valve (CCV), which is sometimes called the Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV), or the Dual Coolant Flow Valve (DCFV).

1. Dual Automatic Temperature Control Lincoln Ls Manual Pdf
2. Dual Automatic Temperature Control Lincoln Ls Manual
3. Automatic Temperature Control System Diagram

Attached are the diagnostic procedures and electrical diagram to help determine the actual culprit. Additional posts will cover the DCCV replacement and the DEATC replacement. Here is what 'Jerry' wrote about replacing the DCCV, based upon post #2 above: For the next person that has heat on one side and cooling on the other, I too found the DCCV to be defective. It's hard to replace for sure.

Follow instructions in other threads. To get the heater hoses off, I found it easier to disconnect them at the metal tubes by pressing in on the plastic lock and slipping the hose off. It's easier than you would think. Then with the DCCV off, you can remove the 2 heater hoses from it. The other hose can be removed when you get the DCCV above the fender well. The electrical connector comes off by pulling the red cover up and then pressing the side of the connector under where the red cover was. No one told about this in any thread I read and it took me awhile to figure it out.

The same for the heater hoses. To replace the DCCV, you will have to remover the plastic radiator cover and the triangle shaped metal piece to get to the canister. No one told that either. Any chance the control module and what would be a thermal monitoring device and relay be or become bad after repeated fault from the DCCV valve??replaced my dccv with a used one from junkyard I had to prime /clean it first before it would test positive gummed up i used a 12 volt side of a computer power supply to make sure the pull down effect worked with the plungers first before installing. The old one broke trying to remove the cap.after installing and flushing the cooling system it worked for the night but the next day im back to mediocre drivers side and just cool passenger side. Might be important to have pristine surfaces on the dccv for proper operation or????

Like the question im asking above is part of the circuit bad or defective after the probable gummed up time the dccv is stuck in one position open yes ive burped the system and have a steady stream out the purge valve for the heater core there are some apprehensions flushing and refilling the system boiling coolant and steam from purge valve and degas bottle during refill. Additionally a popular ford dealer and official service center said when I first was investigating that the vehicle might need a software upgrade to resolve the issue a calibration issue with the vent doors or system in general. The cockpit diagnosis screen comes up all bars good after running the little diag on the climate control box.

Per the factory service manual, below are the steps to pull diagnostic codes from the HVAC system: Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes—DTCs) On-demand DTCs are those that are reported by an ECU when a failure is detected while executing a diagnostic test. For the DATC module this means that all faults (hard) that occur while the module is conducting a self-test shall be reported as an on-demand DTC. The DATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages such as engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. The scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 0-32°C (32-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false temperature sensor DTCs may be displayed.The DATC module self-test through the front panel display: can be initiated at any time.

Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated. Is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show counts of 1 to 25 in the center of the display window. Record all DTCs displayed. Concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given. Reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).

Will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test. Will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.

Will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.To exit the self-test, press any button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed DTCs will continue to be displayed. Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.

If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart ( SC1)Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation. Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Front Panel DATC Module Display—Retrieve Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) Continuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC.

Dual Automatic Temperature Control Lincoln Ls Manual Pdf

To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display. The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory. All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected. Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.

DTCs shall be reported as a four-digit DTC (less the alpha character). Pressing the front defrost button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory. Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory. Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.If the procedures above yield any codes, post back and I'll give you the description for the code. Per the factory service manual, below are the steps to pull diagnostic codes from the HVAC system: Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes—DTCs) On-demand DTCs are those that are reported by an ECU when a failure is detected while executing a diagnostic test. For the DATC module this means that all faults (hard) that occur while the module is conducting a self-test shall be reported as an on-demand DTC.

The DATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages such as engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. The scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 0-32°C (32-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false temperature sensor DTCs may be displayed.The DATC module self-test through the front panel display: can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated. Is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show counts of 1 to 25 in the center of the display window.

Dual Automatic Temperature Control Lincoln Ls Manual

Record all DTCs displayed. Concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given. Reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character). Will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test. Will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.

Will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.To exit the self-test, press any button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed DTCs will continue to be displayed. Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.

If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart ( SC1)Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation. Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).

Front Panel DATC Module Display—Retrieve Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) Continuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC. To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display. The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory. All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.

Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit. DTCs shall be reported as a four-digit DTC (less the alpha character). Pressing the front defrost button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory. Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory. Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status.

The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.If the procedures above yield any codes, post back and I'll give you the description for the code.RodI tried this procedure due to my own problems and it doesn't work. What am I doing wrong. I press the off and combo panel, floor, vent, button and then the auto button. Nothing happens except it goes into auto. There's a electronic control hot water pump for Dual climate controls. 1) When the car is at normal operating cond,turn off Car engine.

2) Turn on Ignition switch to the on pos,this will activate the pump,so you can have heat in car while Eng is off. 3) This will force the hot water through the Dual climate control solenoid. 4) Check Anti-freeze level! (Air-pockets) 5) If your still having Tbl,it could be the Dual climate control solenoid. I had to take mine apart and cleaned with WD40.:smokin:.

It's a good ideal to exercise this switch during the summer months. Note: Running this electric pump is a good way of working out air pockets during radiator flush treatments. What year LS are you trying this procedure on?

Are you following the steps precisely? Read the first step again.

What you typed you're doing does not agree with step 1 for either of the procedures.RodIt's a 2004. There is no floor button or panel button. It is one button you press to get different controls. You press once, it's def, you press again, it's panel, again floor, again, panel and floor. ETC Something like that but no seperate buttons for floor, panel and def. I'm not missing any procedure.

I tried it over and over. The problem is the self test feature is different for the 2003-2006 LS cars with the heated/cooled seats.

I went thru hell to find it and finally took it to the dealer only to find out they did not know either!! So the mechanic called the hot line and got the correct instructions.

Ignition needs to be on. Car can be running or not.

Push the OFF and the DEFROST buttons at the same time. Then press the AUTO button. You are now in self test mode. Let it run and you should get all 8's and every light segment lighted if everything is good. Otherwise write down the numbers displayed.

The trouble codes are listed in the Helm shop manual. Push any button to end the test. You might want to save a copy of this.

IT IS NOT IN THE HELM MANUAL!!! All of Ford/Lincoln service materials are wrong or don't even mention the differences. The code 12 59 indicates an issue, like your previous code of 12 61, with the solar radiation sensor, A/C solar radiation sensor open circuit. Code 50 41 indicates SCP invalid or missing data for function read vehicle speed. Is there a chance you didn't get one of the connectors seated properly when you replaced the temp sensor? Is there a reason you replaced the air temp sensor when your code indicated an issue with the solar radiation sensor? -Rod I replaced the sensor on top of the dash.

The little black bubble that is farthest away from the windshield. (I believe the other black bubble has to do with the secutrity?) I was told at the Lincoln dealership this was called the air temp sensor so that's what I called it. I just plugged it in and tried the AC. It didn't help, so I tried the diagnostic test again. The results were 12 59 and 50 41.

Could to explain the 50 41? I don't recall what SCP stands for, Serial Communications Protocal?

I don't believe it's 'Serial' but don't recall what it is. Anyway, apparently the vehicle speed input for the CAN protocol system is not present. Does the speedometer and cruise control work? Try scanning the powertrain codes and see if you get a similar speed sensor error from the power train system. It sounds like a connector somewhere got left off, causing the open condition for the solar radiation sensor and possibly the missing speed sensor information. For what it's worth, the solar radiation sensor is not a temperature sensor, but rather a light sensor. I left the solar radation sensor unpluged while I waited for the new one to come in.

Would that expain any of the previous codes? Prior to removing the sensor the air conditioner went out completely. A mechanic found a blown fuse in the Power Distribution Box under 'HEGO's'. I'm not sure what caused this. Now the air conditioner is back to the same problem of blowing out heat and cool air at the same time if you change the temp. If I stop and turn off the engine for a while and come back later and start it the air conditioner works fine unless I change the temp. When I change the temp settings or cut the air conditioner off you can hear the blend door shutting.

I read on here somewhere that the blend door is operated electronically. How do you check it. Also, that the air conditioner has a thermostat or the Dual Coolant Control Valve could be sticking.

Automatic Temperature Control System Diagram

Do you know anything about these? I recently has an emission light come on but, I think it to be a seperate issue. I had the code pulled on it and it stated: 02 heater circut (bank 1 Sensor 2). A rock flipped up and it hit the undercarriage the day this light came on. I was thinking it may have knocked my a wire on my 02 sensor loose. I left the solar radation sensor unpluged while I waited for the new one to come in. Would that expain any of the previous codes?

Prior to removing the sensor the air conditioner went out completely. A mechanic found a blown fuse in the Power Distribution Box under 'HEGO's'. I'm not sure what caused this. Now the air conditioner is back to the same problem of blowing out heat and cool air at the same time if you change the temp. If I stop and turn off the engine for a while and come back later and start it the air conditioner works fine unless I change the temp. When I change the temp settings or cut the air conditioner off you can hear the blend door shutting. I read on here somewhere that the blend door is operated electronically.

How do you check it. Also, that the air conditioner has a thermostat or the Dual Coolant Control Valve could be sticking.

Do you know anything about these? I recently has an emission light come on but, I think it to be a seperate issue. I had the code pulled on it and it stated: 02 heater circut (bank 1 Sensor 2). A rock flipped up and it hit the undercarriage the day this light came on. I was thinking it may have knocked my a wire on my 02 sensor loose. Yep, if the codes were not cleared prior to reconnecting the new solar radiation sensor, that would explain the code 12 59. Unfortunately I'm fighting a very similar issue to yours, except I get no codes.

I've also replaced the DCCV with no change and even tried a second control head, no difference. On my wife's 2002, we need to turn the set point down to 60 in order to get it blowing cold. If we turn it up to 65, it may start blowing warm.

If it starts blowing warm, then we turn it back to 60 for a minute or two, then back to 65, it will continue blowing cold and the fan speed may slow down a step or two. It soon gets too cold, but if set the temp setting all the way up to 85 (max) it will still be blowing cold air. This is even when the outside temp is around 80. No DATC diagnostic codes, a brand new OEM DCCV, new battery (recently), different control head, and the R-134a pressures are at specification. The problem is the self test feature is different for the 2003-2006 LS cars with the heated/cooled seats. I went thru hell to find it and finally took it to the dealer only to find out they did not know either!!

So the mechanic called the hot line and got the correct instructions. Ignition needs to be on. Car can be running or not. Push the OFF and the DEFROST buttons at the same time. Then press the AUTO button. You are now in self test mode. Let it run and you should get all 8's and every light segment lighted if everything is good.

Otherwise write down the numbers displayed. The trouble codes are listed in the Helm shop manual. Push any button to end the test. You might want to save a copy of this. IT IS NOT IN THE HELM MANUAL!!!

All of Ford/Lincoln service materials are wrong or don't even mention the differences. So do you know which buttons to press for a '05 V6 LS without cooled and heated seats, I tryed it every which way and have never seen a self test pop up, I'd really like to get my AC going again without having to go to a dealer. Well, for the 2004 there is not a designation between the process for DATC with climate controlled seats versus without. Did all V8 models have climate controlled seats? The manual claims you access the codes with the following sequence: - The DATC module self-test through the front panel display: can be initiated at any time.

Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated. Is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. Record all DTCs displayed. Concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs.

Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given. Reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character). Will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test. Will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected. Will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.

To exit the self-test, press the defrost button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed, DTCs will continue to be displayed.

Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode. For what it's worth, I'm claiming success in getting the issue fixed on my wife's LS. My scan tool showed that the Evaporator Core Air Discharge temp sensor was not in range.

There were no codes, but the datastream showed no changes in the reading and it appeared to be maxed out at 255 degrees F, even when the vent temp was 45 degrees F. Replaced the sensor and all has been well for 2 weeks of mixed weather. The Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) is located under the hood near the radiator. It has two valves in it which regulates the flow of coolant to the dual heater core elements inside the car.

There is no valve for the coolant flow inside the car/under the dash. Hopefully the dealer technician that told you that will not be the one working on your car. On older cars, the heater control valve did serve a very similar purpose to the DCCV, but was often vacuum actuated (DCCV is electronically actuated). Someone who's been in the business awhile may refer to the DCCV as a 'heater control valve.' The Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) is located under the hood near the radiator.

It has two valves in it which regulates the flow of coolant to the dual heater core elements inside the car. There is no valve for the coolant flow inside the car/under the dash.

Hopefully the dealer technician that told you that will not be the one working on your car. On older cars, the heater control valve did serve a very similar purpose to the DCCV, but was often vacuum actuated (DCCV is electronically actuated). Someone who's been in the business awhile may refer to the DCCV as a 'heater control valve.' -Rod The techician who told me there were two isn't fixing my car.

Do you have the part number? Well, for the 2004 there is not a designation between the process for DATC with climate controlled seats versus without. Did all V8 models have climate controlled seats? The manual claims you access the codes with the following sequence: - The DATC module self-test through the front panel display: can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated. Is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.

Concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given. Reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character). Will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.

Will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected. Will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit. To exit the self-test, press the defrost button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory.

If no button is pushed, DTCs will continue to be displayed. Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode. For what it's worth, I'm claiming success in getting the issue fixed on my wife's LS. My scan tool showed that the Evaporator Core Air Discharge temp sensor was not in range.

There were no codes, but the datastream showed no changes in the reading and it appeared to be maxed out at 255 degrees F, even when the vent temp was 45 degrees F. Replaced the sensor and all has been well for 2 weeks of mixed weather.RodSorry for slow response, as I have to temp. Stop at local library, I've tryed that before and it didnt work, but will try again, there is something I noticed the other day that the air compressor is not kicking off and on. Is there something I can check, it was almost dark when it dawned on me it wasnt clicking off and on.

Yep, I'd suggest you still replace it. You swapped it with the driver's side air discharge temp sensor.

The air out of the driver's vent may not regulate as well as it should, and maybe that won't become apparent until winter/cold weather. Considering that the part is only $16.19 MSRP and is pretty easy to replace, I'd change it out. At least your confidence is high that that will fix your concern completely. FWIW, my bad sensor looked fine and there was no obvious problem based on a multimeter test. However, my scan tool indicated it was bad in the datastream mode, and the readings followed the sensor when I moved it so I was confident I didn't have a wiring issue.

Is the compressor clutch engaging and staying engaged? If so, that's not really anything to worry about. If it starts cycling rapidly, that would indicate either a low charge of R-134a, an overcharge condition, or some other fault in the system.Rod Sorry for the long delay in answering again, as I still having to stop at library to use pc. I checked fuses again and the 10A fuse in passenger panel was blown.

I replaced it and it did not blow again but still blows hot air. I can now hear compressor cycling. It sounds logical that since that fuse covers AC clutch, coolant control valve, aux coolant pump. That maybe the coolant control valve burned out and blew the fuse. It seems like I read somewhere that the coolant control valve is electronic.

What do you think shorod or any other users. Thanx it will be at least monday before I can get back to this.thanx again.

I think you need to figure out how to get the codes (if there are any) from the DATC unit to see if it guides you to any one particular component. The DCCV is an electronically controlled pair of valves, but everything else in that circuit will also be electronic (hence the need for a fuse) and therefore I'm not sure that I'd say the DCCV is more likely to be the problem than the A/C clutch, coolant pump, etc.RodWell the ac clutch is cycling so I guess is't not that, the engine has never ran hotter than half way up on gauge (normal), so the coolant pump I guess is doing its thing. But it sure blows very hot air. What switches (moves blend door) or blends temps that come out vents? Or that a separate thing? Like say on my caravan I can be using AC and say it gets a little chilly inside, I just hit the AC button to turn it off but let the blower keep blowing and it slowly goes to room air temp air blowing through the vents, but the LS is HOT HOT HOT always no matter what adjustments are made.

I Never could get the DATC unit to give up a code. (I have disconnected the battery before, several times) bout ready to take it to a dealer, see if they can tell me whats wrong without having them actually work on it. (like saying I have to save up the money before I can get it fixed).

So now what u think? Trade it this winter on a very cold day, LOL. Is it Hot regardless of the set temperature? If you set the temp to 60 degrees, is it still coming out the vents hot? The DCCV is the Dual Coolant Control Valve. It regulates the amount of coolant flow for the driver's and passengers heater cores. If the DCCV is working properly, it should be shutting off coolant flow through both of the cores when the set point is 60 degrees.

However, if one or both of the valves are stuck open, or there is a short causing the valves to remain open, you will get constant coolant flow through the cores which will probably overpower the evaporator core chilled/dehumidified air and feel hot at the vents. If at 60 degrees setpoint the air is cold, then you probably have a sensor issue somewhere. Is it Hot regardless of the set temperature? If you set the temp to 60 degrees, is it still coming out the vents hot?

The DCCV is the Dual Coolant Control Valve. It regulates the amount of coolant flow for the driver's and passengers heater cores. If the DCCV is working properly, it should be shutting off coolant flow through both of the cores when the set point is 60 degrees. However, if one or both of the valves are stuck open, or there is a short causing the valves to remain open, you will get constant coolant flow through the cores which will probably overpower the evaporator core chilled/dehumidified air and feel hot at the vents. If at 60 degrees setpoint the air is cold, then you probably have a sensor issue somewhere.RodJust now able to get back with you Rod.

No it's Hot no matter what no cold period, run it down to 60 and still Heater HOT both sides. Even if dual is selected or not. So it DOES sound like the DCCV? Yep, it sounds like the DCCV may be stuck open. One additional test would be to unplug the DCCV electrical connector and see if you still get heat. If so, that would indicate the DCCV is stuck open as I believe the DCCV is supposed to open with battery voltage applied. If you remove the battery voltage and the flow of coolant is still to the heater cores, the DCCV is not closing.

I'll have to confirm that the DCCV opens with battery voltage.RodGreat, now it sounds like where getting somewhere. So you probably already know I'm going to ask where the DCCV electrical connector is located?, I Don't have CD manual or regular manual. The DCCV electrical connector on the 2002 is located to the left side (as you're standing in front of the car/engine compartment) of the radiator towards the top of the radiator. You can follow the wires down to the DCCV connector which is about 12 inches of wire away. I suspect the 2005 model year is similar.

There are three wires in the connector, a brown/green, red/orange, and black/orange. And from my quick look through the service manual, it does appear that battery voltage opens the solenoids, so unplugging the DCCV should stop the flow of coolant to the heater cores if the DCCV is working. Thanks for the codes - I thought they might be specific to the heating and A/C system since they came up there on the temperature display after running the self-diagnostic and did not appear when I checked the OBD II codes with a code scanner. What else would cause the A/C to blow the hot? The pipe from the compressor is cold to the touch and the compressor is engaging. I can hear what sounds like the blend door moving when I press the ventilation control buttons. When the car is first started cold, I have good A/c, but as soon as the engine warms up, the hot air overpowers the cold.

Any further ideas would be appreciated.