REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Remove the mufflers by loosening the pinch clamps on the front of each muffler. Remove the muffler mounting bolt from the right side passenger footrest, slide the mufflers off and set them aside. Note: Save the mounting bolt, it will be reused for installation. Loosen the pinch clamp on both front and rear head pipes, they’re located at the resonance chamber (the black box where the pipes meet). Remove the two acorn nuts that mount the head pipe to the cylinder head. Remove the two piece header flange and set it aside.

1. Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 1998
2. 1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Owners Manual

Remove the front head pipe by rotating it down and pull it out of the resonance chamber. Remove the two acorn nuts and flange from the rear head pipe. Remove the two bolts from either side of the resonance chamber and lower rear pipe and resonance chamber down and out and set it aside. Remove the rubber grommets at the resonance chamber mounting points. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Install the new mounting bracket (stamped 317) to the inside of the stock muffler mounting point (Refer to FIG.

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Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Mark the top edge of all three heat shields with the location of the mounting clips that are welded to the backside. Position the front heat shield over the head pipe and feed the tail end of the hose clamps into the clips. Be sure that each hose clamp is engaged with both clips. Repeat this step with the rear and collector heat shields. To facilitate the installation of the collector heat shield use a forward sliding motion from the rear of the collector.

Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 1998

Do not force the collector heat shield directly onto the collector as damage to the heat shield will result. Note: the collector heat shield uses the 3/8″ wide clamps.

Rotate the hose clamps in the shields so that the screw drives are accessible. Tighten only finger tight at this time. Note: The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. Check to be sure that the stock exhaust gaskets are in good shape. If you have any doubts as to their condition, replace them. Install the header with the heat shields attached, to the front and rear cylinders using the stock nuts and bolts.

Leave them loose at this time. Slide the chrome muffler clamp (supplied) onto the inlet end of the megaphone. Install the 5/16″ x 1 1/4″ bolt with a flat washer on either side of the clamp followed by the 5/16″ lock nut (hardware supplied).

Leave the clamp loose at this time. Slip the megaphone onto the head pipe collector, engaging the collector heat shield between the clamp and the outer slip joint tube. Slide one dog bone shaped nut plate under the bracket that. Lay a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to protect it.

Loosen (do not remove) from underneath, the two hex nuts holding the risers to the upper triple clamp. (Steering head) 3. Remove the four handlebar clamp bolts. (8mm allen wrench) While sitting on the motorcycle, pull the handlebars and upper clamp off of the risers.

They may be slightly stuck and require some force to get free. Lay the handlebar and/or upper clamp/gauge assembly carefully on the blanket. Remove the nuts and risers from the triple clamp. NOTE: Be careful not to scratch the upper triple clamp when installing the new risers.

Assemble the supplied lock washers and flat washers onto the supplied bolts. Install the new risers onto the triple clamp and finger-tighten the bolts. Re-install the handlebars and upper clamp/gauge assembly. Tighten the front bolts first closing the gap at the front, and then tighten the rear bolts.

Tighten the two riser-mounting bolts securely. Check for adequate clearance and proper routing of cables and hoses.

1 Remove the seat. 2 Remove the left side cover. 3 Remove the speedometer assembly. 4 Unbolt the fuel tank. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the fuel tank. It does however make the installation easier. If you do remove the tank, pay attention to the vent hose routing.

1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Owners Manual

Pressing the tabs on the black fuel line connector will allow the fuel line to be disconnected (Fig. A) 5 Remove the battery/ECU hold down bracket (Fig. 6 Unbolt and move the bank angle (tip over) sensor out of the way (Fig.

C i201-411 www.powercommander.com 1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter – PCIII USB – 2 Bank angle sensor (tip over switch) Remove these 2 bolts 7 Loosen the bolts holding the plastic tray on the left side of the bike (under the left side cover) (Fig. 8 Route the wire from the PCIII behind the plastic tray and under the frame side rail (Fig. 9 Retighten the bolts holding the plastic tray. 10 Continue routing the wires from the PCIII under the frame near the lower fuel tank mount and go up to the throttle body area (Fig. E Fig F i201-411 www.powercommander.com 1999-2004 Kawasaki 1500 Drifter – PCIII USB – 3 Route PCIII harness between plastic tray and frame Route wires under frame Loosen these bolts 11 Disconnect the injector connector from the rear injector (Fig. 12 Plug the female PCIII connector with ORANGE/WHITE wire onto the rear injector (Fig.

13 Connect the male PCIII connector with ORANGE wire onto the stock injector connector (Fig. 14 Repeat steps 11 thru 13 for front injector using the PCIII connectors with the YELLOWcolored wires.

15 Locate the wires coming from the throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor is located on the right hand side of the throttle body. It is between the frame and engine Incoming search terms:.

Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened. Before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil.

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider.

Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring.

This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Incoming search terms:. 1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line.

7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL 1. Remove right side frame cover.

If motorcycle is oxygen sensor equipped, remove passenger seat. Remove two bolts securing operator seat and set seat aside. Locate and unplug oxygen sensor connector from wiring harness (Figure 1).(Note wire routing for reassembly).

Remove right side floorboard assembly held in place by two bolts (Figure 2). Remove exhaust port flange nuts. Remove flange bolts securing rear muffler to exhaust system mounting bracket. Remove complete exhaust system. Start by removing front head pipe from exhaust port (assistance may be required).

Page 1of 4 K400IN Rev. 1.1 KAWASAKI VULCAN 2000 POWERSHOTS EXHAUST SYSTEM Part #18311 Tools required for installations 6mm Allen wrench 8mm 12mm 14mm sockets 3/8″ Ratchet & Extensions 19mm Wrench 9/16 Wrench Brake bleeder & fluid 7. Check condition of stock exhaust gaskets. Replace if damaged or worn. Remove plastic hose clamp securing rear brake hose to swingarm.Save for re-use. Remove brake hose banjo bolt from rear caliper.

Slide hose out of loops in swingarm. Remove three bolts holding stock exhaust mounting bracket and slide bracket off end of brake hose. Slide brake hose through loop on new bracket (stamped 357-P) and install to the original mounting bracket location, using three 8mm x 16mm Allen bolts (supplied) (Figure 3). Check condition of sealing washers on banjo bolt and replace if damaged or worn. Slide brake hose through loops on swingarm and reconnect brake hose to caliper. Reinstall plastic clip onto swingarm. Brake system must be bled or brake will not operate correctly.

Incoming search terms:. CHANGING OIL IN THE KAWASAKI VULCAN VN2000 ( based on a 2005 model) by tensm an1 Preparing the motorcycle: 1.

To start, level the motorcycle – my preference is to put a spacer blocks under the kickstand on the left side of the motorcycle and under the frame on the right side of the bike just under the frame member. These blocks are made from scrap lumber. I find it is easier to set the right side block first as shown and tilt the motorcycle until the frame contacts the block, then, holding the handlebars, kick the left side block under the kickstand.

6″ NOTE: This dimension may not be correct for 2004 models as the 2005 models have a different kickstand – the 2004 model will likely be thicker. To be sure your blocks are the correct thickness the first time, lay a level across the luggage rack as shown.

You may need to shim them slightly to hold the bike dead level. 2 7/8″” Or, in the absence of a luggage rack, the seat will do: 2. Get the necessary tools ready: Oil filter wrench – I like the band type shown, but a metal strap type will work. 14 mm box wrench. Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust.

We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines.

Bolt-On style bolts to the O. Mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News Powered by Joomla!

Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo Incoming search terms:. Place a BIG SOFT THICK BLANKET over your GAS TANK, (LET’S CUT TO THE CHASE, THE MAIN THING IS TO PROTECT THE TANK!!!!

2) You will have to jack up the motorcycle. The best way to accomplish this is with a motorcycle/ATV lift.

They are available for a little as $89, and are really an essential tool for maintaining your motorcycle. 3) Remove the stock turn signals completely. They will have to be replaced to do this modification. You may want to install the Kewlmetal turn signal mounts (item #153 or 185) and bullet style signals lights after your fork tubes are in place. 4) Per the Kawasaki service manual, remove the front wheel and be sure to take note of which spacer goes where. Refer to the Service manual for furtherinformation. 5) Remove the front fender Be very careful so you don’t scratch thepaint on the front fender while removing it, the 2 plastic rings holding the front brake lines in place on the front fender will pull out, just make sure to leave them on the lines so they don’t get lost.

Now remove the 2 fork guards. 6) Remove the brake calipers and secure the brake pads if necessarywith tape or wire so they don’t fall out.

This would be a good time to inspect them for wear, and replace them if necessary.NOTE. Do not squeeze the front brake lever after you have removed the front wheel.

Doing so will cause the calipers to close and then you will have to spread them apart prior to re- assembly. 7) Loosen the bolts on the RIGHT side of the upper and lower tripletree clamps. The fork assembly should drop down. Remove the fork assembly from the bike.

8) Clean the stock fork assembly thoroughly.NOTE. This kit contains 8 rubber O-rings, (6) Small ones and (2) Fat ones, it is important that these (8) O-rings are placed in the right place for the correct function of the Fat Fork Tubes 9) Slide one of the Small O-rings over the top of the fork assembly until it reaches the bell at the bottom of the shock. Remove seat and fuel tank.

Consult service manual for proper removal of tank. Remove left side cover and loosen the four bolts inside. Route the two 6-pin connectors between the side cover and frame as shown by the dotted line.

Tighten the four bolts. Route 6-pin connectors under frame and up left side of engine. Locate the 6-pin connector next to the ignition coil. Disconnect and connect the Fuelpak 6-pin connectors in-line on the stock connector. Route single black wire to the front of engine and down to the horn. Disconnect the factory black/white wire from horn. Plug Fuelpak into horn and plug Fuelpak black/white wire to Fuelpak connector.

Be sure Fuelpak connector cannot short to frame or radiator. Route black and green wires to battery negative. Attach Fuelpak to Fuelpak harness and mount in left side cover. (Fig 5a 49 State) (Fig 5b Caliornia Models) 9. Before reassembling the bike, make sure handlebar switch is in the engine off position and turn the key on. Fuelpak should light up. Sound the horn.

If Fuelpak turns off when the horn is sounded, recheck the black wire connection on the horn and that it is connected to the correct wire from the factory harness. Use supplied zip ties to hold Fuelpak wire harness away from engine.

Follow the service manual to reinstall the gas tank.